Climbing Three Finger Jack, by Ben Siebel

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Trip Report: Climbing Three Fingered Jack
Saturday, June 30, 2001, by Ben Siebel

Brent, Kara, Julie, and I (Ben Siebel) left the PCT trailhead on Santiam Pass at 7:30 AM on Saturday, June 30th under blue skies with warm temperatures. Within two miles of the trailhead the mosquitoes began to thicken. By about noon we reached the area along the trail where we had assumed the climbers trail cut up the mountain. This turned out to be about a mile past the climbers trail. After a steep and mosquito filled traverse/climb back to the climbers trail we started up Three Finger Jack in earnest.

The climber's trail up the lower scree was straight and steep. It was near 1:00 PM by the time we reached the South Ridge Saddle where we had a quick lunch. At about 1:30 PM we resumed the climb up the 3rd class slopes towards the summit. Just as the scramble was becoming exposed, Julie had a foothold break loose, causing her to loose her balance and fall backward on the steep slope. After a short (20-25 ft), although severe tumble, Julie came to rest in a large relatively flat sandy area. A short WFA check revealed that Julie was lucky to receive only some good-sized bruises and minor scrapes. After administering first aid, we were ready to continue climbing.

Within 100 more yards we were at the point where the exposure warrants use of a rope and climbing helmets. The exposure and setting was somewhat overwhelming. At this point (around 2:00 PM) Kara and Julie opted out of completing the summit. After few minutes of contemplating the climb, Brent and I geared up and continued.

Between the first two belay stations was simple 4th class climbing. The "Crawl", an exposed traverse, was next. It proved to be a few simple 5th class moves. Proper rope technique moved us through quickly. More 4th class scrambling led to the summit chimney, a thirty foot, low 5th class climb to rappel anchors. One more belay station and we were at the last pitch to the summit, an airy, thin traverse out to the highest point. A few short minutes and we were ready to down climb to the only rappel for the day.

The decent went quickly. Using a running belay and the excess rope to make anchor loops, we moved down the mountain, only to stop for Brent to retrieve an ancient non-locking 'Biner' that had been dropped by a previous climber (25 years ago??). Just as we reached Kara and Julie (around 4:00 PM) the weather moved in, bringing low clouds and modest winds. The whole party tied into a running belay, through the steeps of the lower mountain, for added security. Upon reaching the PCT we stowed our climbing gear and headed for the car. Five miles later, shortly after 8:00 PM our journey ended at the parking lot and yes, I avoided getting a ticket again!!
--Ben Siebel
Copyright, 2001 by Ben Seibel. All Rights Reserved.

THE ACCOUNT OF JULIE ZEIDMAN
I had a fully loaded pack on my back. Ben, Kara and Brent were just up 15 feet above me. I had a platform of rock/gravel I had to climb up onto to get to them. The platform was about 3' to 4' high. I stepped onto a rocky foothold with my right foot about halfway up the platform. Both hands were on top of the platform. I then brought my left foot up to the level of my right food and then completely weighted myself and that's when the foot hold gave way.

I flipped over completely backwards, landed and slid on my chest and then somehow rolled over onto my back, came to a lucky stop and sat up.

I felt a great deal of pain on my left outer thigh and there's now a bruise about 8"x5" on it. Luckily, my head never made contact with the ground. As I was tumbling violently for 25 plus feet the vision of those firemen tumbling off that mountain in Europe you showed in your Class, flashed in my mind. Kara, Brent and Ben stared in stunned, helpless disbelief.

I am okay now!
--Climb On! Julie Zeidman